This year, after going back and forth between lots of destinations (Jordan, Morocco,…), we finally decided to set our course for Sardinia. On the agenda: hikes, kayaking, nuragic sites, beaches and coves with crystal-clear water, dolphin watching…not to mention sampling local treats like culurgiones, pane carasau, and pardulas. A pretty packed schedule to discover this Italian island south of Corsica!
Day 1: Cagliari#
- Departure from Brussels South Charleroi
- Arrival at Cagliari Airport
- Picking up the rental car
- Walking tour of Cagliari
- Off to our first place to stay in the Ogliastra area
Sardinia is only a little over two hours’ flight from Belgium, so you feel like you’re somewhere else in no time. The Ryanair flight goes smoothly and we touch down at Cagliari Airport around 11:40. By the time we’ve collected our bags and the rental car (a white Opel Crossland), it’s already 1:30 p.m.… Off to the Sardinian capital for a quick look around before heading to our first accommodation. While looking for a walking route, I came across the Navaway app. We start from City Hall, Santa Anne’s church, the Torre dell’Elefante, Santa Maria Cathedral, the Bastione di Saint Remy,…
Day 2: Arbatax & Porto Frailis#
- Pool
- Lido di Orri beach
- Stroll through the village of Arbatax and its Rocce Rosse
- Walk out to Porto Frailis beach and the Torre di San Gemiliano
- Dinner in Porto Frailis
First morning in Sardinia with a view of the pool, the mountain with the hilltop village of Baunei, and the sea in the background. A small surprise: a slightly cloudy sky in the distance. The plan for this first vacation day was to take it easy and unwind, making the most of the pool and nearby beaches. After a quick dip in the pool, we head to Lido di Orri. In the afternoon we decide to go all the way to the village of Arbatax, known for its famous red rocks (Rocce Rosse). On site, a huge stage is being set up for the Arbatax Music Festival. We wander the streets of Arbatax and end up on the nice little beach at Porto Frailis. It’s a small 200 m beach, sheltered from the wind by the bay and watched over by the tower of San Gemiliano. From the top of the tower you get a lovely view over Porto Frailis bay.
Day 3: Gorropu Canyon#
- Hike in Gorropu Canyon
- Start at 1,000 m elevation at Ghenna ’e Silana
- Paid entry (€5) with a check on how much water you’re carrying
- Steady descent, losing height down to 367 m at the gorge entrance
- Visiting the gorge is paid as well
- Walk back up
- Cold drink at Bar Silana
For our third day, the Gorropu Canyon hike is on the menu. The trailhead is at 1,000 m at Ghenna ’e Silana. There’s a fee to enter the hike (€5) and they’ll make sure you’ve brought enough water for the route. The descent is non-stop downhill (watch your knees) until you reach 367 m at the mouth of the gorge. Visiting the gorge costs extra too, but it would be a shame to come all that way down and skip it. We decided to walk back up. Back at the car park, quick stop at Bar Silana for a cold drink.
Day 4: Cala Goloritzé#
- Hike from su Porteddu to Cala Goloritzé
- Through the village of Baunei
- You shouldn’t always trust Google Maps
- Visitor cap of 250
- Booking required via an app
- Gorgeous hike, easier than Gorropu Canyon
- Swim in the sea and walk back to the start
Even though we were bummed we couldn’t hop from beach to beach by Zodiac, we spotted that you can reach Cala Goloritzé cove from su Porteddu on the Golgo plateau. The hike looked doable with the kids: 142 m of ascent and 544 m of descent. Crossing the village of Baunei, a sign says not to follow Google Maps and to change direction because the road narrows to about 2 m wide.
Day 5: Biderosa oasis#
- Walk through the pine forest to the first of the 5 beaches
- You can rent kayaks and go trekking
- Bird-watching spots
- Beach 1: crystal-clear water, hardly anyone there
- Beach 2: the least pretty, lots of seaweed
- Beaches 3 and 4: lovely, fine white sand
- Beach 5: pretty too but much busier
- Ice cream break at a food truck near beach 3
- Drive to our second place to stay in Baja Sardinia
Day 6: Cala Moresca, Golfo Aranci & Olbia#
- Kayaking & dolphins outing
- One double kayak and one triple kayak
- Dolphin watching near a fish farm
- Stop at Figarolo to swim and snorkel
- Stop at Cala Moresca’s third beach for an aperitivo: pecorino, salami, orange juice or beer
- Fun fact: Disney filmed part of The Little Mermaid at Cala Moresca
- Back to Cala Moresca’s second beach to relax
- Stop in Golfo Aranci for ice cream served in brioche buns
- Quick look around Olbia
Day 7: Arzachena & Cala Moresca#
- Visit Arzachena on market day
- Local quirk: the mushroom
- Browsing among the stalls
- Nice staircase up to a small church
- Stop in San Pantaleo for ice cream
- Back to Cala Moresca for a hike to the Marconi semaphore
Day 8: Maddalena archipelago#
- Ferry from Palau to the Maddalena islands (30 min, Delcomar)
- Across to Caprera and its 16 hiking trails
- Starting point: the Arbuticci fortifications
- Trail 14: Capa Napoletana
- Detour via Cala Caprerese for a picnic
- Discovering a superb cove with turquoise water
- Cala Cottici (sand like grains of rice) only accessible with a guide
- Return to La Maddalena, 20 km scenic road
- Dinner at restaurant La Toscane
Day 9: Santa Teresa di Gallura#
- Leaving Baja Sardinia for our third accommodation
- Baja Sardinia beach 100 m from the apartment
- Stop in Santa Teresa di Gallura for a visit
- Torre di Longonsardo with paragliders overhead
- View over Reina Bianca beach
Day 10: Castelsardo#
- Couldn’t book La Pelosa beach (750 spots gone in 2 minutes)
- Bought a family bundle on Alghero Experience (Neptune’s Grotto + museums)
- Stop at the Basilica of Saccargia
- Wander Castelsardo and climb up to the castle
- Rolled ice cream
- Explore the alleyways and the colourful dome
- Arrival at third stay: Villa Ginevra near Sassari
Day 11: Capo Caccia#
- Neptune’s Grotto at 9 a.m.
- 654 steps, still in the shade (1,308 steps round trip)
- Really nice guided tour (English/Italian)
- Le Prigionette nature reserve
- Climb to the summit of Monte Timidome (slopes up to 30%)
- Stunning view at the top and meeting two donkeys
Day 12: Asinara National Park#
- Ferry from Porto Torres (1 hr 15)
- Asinara Park: only residents are donkeys, including albino white donkeys
- Getting around: golf cart, bike, 4×4, shuttle, or on foot
- Arrival at Cala Reale
- Trails 6 and 11 toward Cala Sabina
- Trails very poorly marked, brutal heat
- Back to Trabuccato beach
- Takeaway pizzas from La Roccia
Day 13: Bosa#
- Last dip, then headed for Bosa
- Parking behind the old tanneries
- Visit the castle with great views over Bosa and the Temo river
- Colourful streets
- Dinner at Bacco Bistrot
- Drive to our fourth and last accommodation in Guspini
Day 14: Iglesias & Porto Flavia#
- Quick look at Iglesias
- Guided tour of Porto Flavia (50 min in English)
- Beach level with Porto Flavia
- Stop in Buggeru for ice cream and pardulas
- Cala del Balenetto, reachable from San Nicolò beach
- Small cove with transparent water and white sand, like a swimming pool
Day 15: Back to Belgium#
- Early wake-up at 2:15 a.m.
- Drop off the rental car
- Coffee and orange juice at the airport
- Return flight at 6:25 a.m.
- Land back in Belgium under cloudy skies at 8:45 a.m.
